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Abrasives and belt grinding in a working knife shop

Abrasives

Contact Wheels Explained: Diameter, Durometer & the Hollow Grind

How contact wheels work: what diameter does to the hollow, what durometer does to the bite, serrated vs smooth, and hollow-grinding technique.

2 min readWritten by Rich LinvilleFree to read

A contact wheel is a simple promise — a perfectly round, rubber-faced reference — that unlocks a whole family of grinds the platen cannot touch. Two numbers define every wheel: diameter and durometer. Learn what each buys and the catalog stops being confusing.

DIAMETER: THE RADIUS YOU GRIND

The wheel’s radius prints into the blade as the hollow’s sweep: big wheels (10-14″) cut shallow, wide, elegant hollows — the classic hunter and razor look; 8″ is the versatile middle that also hogs like a champion; small diameters cut deep, tight hollows and blend curves. One wheel cannot fake another’s radius, which is why shops accumulate them — but the first contact wheel should be a middle size that hollows knives AND removes steel fast, because hogging is the wheel’s second career: round contact concentrates pressure into a moving line, eating steel faster than any flat setup.

Two rubber-rimmed contact wheels of different diameters, each on its own cast-iron stand on a dark bench.

DUROMETER: THE BITE DIAL

Durometer — rubber hardness — decides how the belt meets the work. Hard faces (70+ Shore A) cut aggressive and true, printing crisp hollows and fast hogging; softer faces cushion the contact for blending and finishing, wrapping slightly around curves. Serrated faces run cooler and cut harder (the grooves vent and flex); smooth faces finish cleaner. The working default is a smooth middle-durometer wheel; specialists come later.

Close view of a smooth rubber wheel tread beside a contact wheel with evenly spaced narrow grooves across its face.

HOLLOW-GRINDING TECHNIQUE IN ONE PARAGRAPH

Set the work rest so the blade addresses the wheel at centerline height, establish the hollow with light passes at coarse grit — the wheel finds its own registration once the hollow starts (the blade nests onto the radius) — then walk the grits up per the belt progression, always cooler and lighter as the cheeks thin: hollow sections lose their mass early and burn fast, per the burned-edge rules. Keep the blade moving through the pass; a dwell prints a wheel-width flat spot into the hollow that only a full regrind erases.

Flat knife blank on a steel work rest, tip near a belt-wrapped black contact wheel, rest top level with the hub

WHAT HOLLOWS ARE FOR (AND NOT)

Hollows excel where slicing and re-sharpening rule: hunters (the classic skinning grind), razors (the whole discipline), EDC slicers that stay slicey through years of sharpening. They surrender to the platen for choppers and hard-use blades — thin hollow cheeks and lateral loads disagree, per the geometry chart. One machine, both grinds: that is the whole point of the arm system.

Hollow-ground hunting knife with a walnut handle resting on a leather pad, side light across the blade's concave cheek.

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