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Swords

The Medieval Longsword: Cut, Thrust & Typology

The longsword for real: a 33-40 inch two-hander of about 3 pounds, Oakeshott types, half-swording, and the steel, hardness and distal taper a maker needs.

2 min readWritten by Rich LinvilleFree to read

The longsword is the European counterpart to the katana’s fame: the two-handed cruciform sword of the late medieval knight, the centerpiece of the German and Italian fight books, and — thanks to HEMA’s revival — the historical sword modern people most often actually swing. It is also routinely misunderstood in the opposite direction from the katana: where the katana gets over-mythologized, the longsword gets dismissed as a crowbar. Real ones average three pounds and handle like fencing tools.

What Longsword Means

A hand-and-a-half to two-handed cruciform sword, blade 33 to 40 inches, in use roughly 1250–1550. The grip takes both hands (or one, mounted); the long crossguard defends and traps; the pommel counterweights and strikes. Oakeshott’s typology — the standard classification of medieval blades — tracks its evolution: broad flat-fullered cutters (Types XII, XIII) giving way to stiffer, more tapered diamond-section cut-and-thrust blades (XV, XVII, XVIII) as plate armor spread and thrusting at gaps mattered more than cleaving mail.

Two longswords on a padded wooden rack, one broad with a fuller, the other a slimmer, tapering blade, in a dim forge shop.

How It Was Actually Used

The fight books — Liechtenauer’s German tradition, Fiore’s Italian — show a sophisticated system: guards flowing into cuts, thrusts and windings; half-swording (a hand gripping the blade’s forte for spear-like precision against armor); pommel strikes; grappling. The sword was the sidearm and the fencing-school weapon; battlefield primacy belonged to lances, pollaxes and bows. Against plate it thrust at joints and visors — nothing hand-held cleaves hardened plate, whatever the movies vote.

Gloved hands hold a bright fullered longsword, one on the grip behind the crossguard, one on the blade ahead of it.

The Real Numbers

Museum longswords run 2.5 to 3.5 pounds — the twenty-pound sword is pure fiction. Balance sits two to four inches ahead of the guard, blade presence enough to cut, agility enough to fence. Distal taper does the work: many longswords halve their blade thickness from guard to point, which is why replicas without proper taper feel like the crowbar of legend while originals feel alive. That taper discipline — thickness fading continuously along feet of blade — is THE longsword grinding skill, same physics as knife distal taper at scale.

Unfinished longsword blade with a tang resting on two padded wooden cradles along a long dark workbench.

Construction for Makers

Spring-steel monosteel is the honest modern medium: 5160 or 9260 through-hardened to the low 50s HRC — a longsword wants spine-to-edge resilience, not knife hardness; see Sword Steels. Diamond or lenticular cross-section, fuller optional by type, hidden rod tang peened over the pommel (or the modern threaded concession), radiused shoulders as always. The guard and pommel are their own metalworking projects — mild steel, filed and slotted — and fitting them tight is half the difference between maker and manufacturer.

Gloved hand fitting a plain steel crossguard onto the tang of a longsword blade clamped in padded vise jaws.

Why It Endures

HEMA clubs fence with steel feders reconstructing the old systems; collectors chase Oakeshott types; and for makers the longsword is the great European test piece — every skill from forging to heat treat to hilt furniture, in one object your customers already dream about.

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