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Diagram: raindrop or birdseye pattern damascus — a staggered grid of shallow divots drilled into both faces of a layered billet, then flattened so each divot becomes concentric rings

Damascus & Pattern Welding

Raindrop (Birdseye) Pattern Damascus: Step by Step

How to make raindrop (birdseye) damascus: staggered dimple grids, round-nose drilling to 1/3 depth, flattening routes, and etching the rings.

2 min readWritten by Rich LinvilleFree to read

Raindrop damascus — also called birdseye or pool-and-eye — covers the blade in concentric rings, like rain hitting still water. If you’ve read the ladder pattern guide, you already know how this works: it’s the identical remove-material-and-flatten trick, with round dimples instead of straight grooves. Each dimple, once the bar is flattened, becomes a bullseye of exposed layers.

Raindrop (Birdseye) Pattern: Dimple, Then Flatten

  1. 1. Drill a divot gridBlade face: shallow round divots, staggered grid (drill press or ball die)
  2. 2. Divots cut into the layers
  3. 3. Flatten — rings appearForge or grind flat: each divot becomes a raindrop of concentric rings
  • ~1/3 thickness, both faces staggered

Same idea as the ladder pattern — round dimples instead of grooves

Dimple a staggered grid into both faces, then flatten: every divot becomes rings.

Step by Step

  1. Start with a solid, flat, high-layer bar. Raindrop loves layer count — 150–300 layers give each drop many fine rings (see the first billet guide for getting there). Forge the bar oversized in thickness; the dimples cost you the same ~1/3 the ladder does.
  2. Lay out a staggered grid. Center-punch each dimple location: rows across the bar, each row offset half a step from its neighbor — like bricks, not graph paper. Random placement is a legitimate look (“rain”), but the offset grid is the classic. Spacing of roughly 3/8″–1/2″ between centers suits most blades.
    Flat steel bar on a steel block with small punch dimples in offset rows, a center punch and ball-peen hammer beside it
  3. Cut the dimples ~1/3 deep. The controlled way: a drill press with a round-nosed (ball-end) bit — a standard twist drill leaves a flat-bottomed hole with a sharp rim that forges into cold shuts. No round-nose bit? A ball-die under a press, or even a ball-peen hammer struck at even depth on hot steel (harder to keep consistent, very traditional). Depth consistency = ring-size consistency, so use the drill press depth stop.
    Steel bar clamped in a vise with four shallow rounded dimples, a round-nosed cutter held still in the chuck above
  4. Dimple both faces, staggered. Same rule as the ladder: the bottom-face dimples sit between the top-face dimples, never directly opposite, or you create paper-thin spots that blow through during flattening.
  5. Flatten the bar. Forge route (pattern runs deeper, survives forging to shape) or grind route (crisper rings, for stock removal) — same tradeoff as the ladder guide covers. If forging, keep the blows flat and even; smearing the dimples sideways turns your raindrops into teardrops (which, to be fair, some makers do on purpose).
    Sledgehammer with a flat face resting on a glowing orange dimpled bar on an anvil, held by gloved hands and tongs
  6. Finish as usual: profile, grind bevels — noting that the bevel grind slices through drops at different depths, adding variety — then heat treat on the 1084 recipe and etch. Raindrop rewards a slightly deeper etch: the rings gain real topography and catch light beautifully.
    Etched Damascus blade with an integral tang, showing irregular concentric raindrop rings, lying on dark felt

Design Notes

Dimple size controls drop size; depth controls how many rings each drop shows; density controls busyness. A sparse scatter of large drops over a fine-layer background is elegant; a dense grid of small drops reads almost like lace. And the combination move — raindrop over a lightly twisted bar — puts rings over flowing rope for serious visual depth.

Sources

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