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Blade Design

Hidden Fasteners for Knife Handles: Corby & Loveless Bolts

How Corby and Loveless bolts clamp scales tight yet finish flush like a pin, plus countersunk screw systems and when to choose them over plain pins and epoxy.

3 min readWritten by Rich LinvilleFree to read

Beyond simple pins, several hardware systems let a maker attach handle scales with a cleaner look, added mechanical strength, or the option to service the handle later. These are collectively known as hidden or “bolt” fasteners.

Corby Bolts

A two-piece system: a threaded bolt and a matching barrel-shaped sleeve that thread together from either side of the handle. Once tightened and ground flush, a Corby bolt looks like a solid rivet or pin from the outside, but it draws the scales together mechanically under real clamping force, adding strength beyond what epoxy and a plain pin provide alone. Removing one typically means drilling it out rather than simply unscrewing it once installed and finished, so treat it as a strong, clean-looking permanent fastener rather than a routinely serviceable one.

Threaded Corby bolt and its stepped internal-thread barrel sitting apart in a wood block beside a drilled walnut scale.

Loveless Bolts

Named after knifemaker Bob Loveless, a similar two-piece countersunk bolt system to Corby bolts, threading together to clamp the scales with real mechanical force and finishing flush. Loveless bolts and Corby bolts serve essentially the same purpose with some differences in exact thread and head design between manufacturers; both are considered premium, high-strength hidden fastener options.

Why Use Bolts Instead of Plain Pins

Plain pins rely on the pin’s diameter and the surrounding epoxy bond for strength. Corby-style and Loveless bolts add active clamping force, mechanically drawing the scales tight against the tang independent of the epoxy, which can produce a tighter, more secure final fit, especially valuable on hard-use knives or when working with handle materials that are less forgiving of an imperfect epoxy bond.

Walnut knife handle with two slotted bolt heads seated in counterbores, blade held in a padded bench vise beside a screwdriver.

Countersunk (Hidden) Screw Systems

Some makers use countersunk machine screws that thread into a tapped hole in the tang, with the screw head recessed and then covered with a matching material plug or filled and blended smooth. This allows genuine disassembly (unlike Corby or Loveless bolts once finished) at the cost of more visible hardware unless carefully hidden, and more setup work (tapping threads accurately into the tang).

Slotted screw seated in a round recess in a walnut handle scale, with a matching wood plug resting beside it.

Standard Through-Bolts (Visible Hardware)

Not hidden at all, exposed bolt heads or standoffs that are a deliberate visual design element rather than something concealed, common on tactical and modern folding knife designs. Worth knowing about as the alternative to hidden fastener systems, not a mistake if visible hardware is the intended look.

Fixed-blade utility knife on dark leather with two exposed hex-socket screw heads set in black handle scales.

Choosing Between Pins and Bolt Systems

Plain pins with quality epoxy are entirely adequate and far simpler for most builds, including a first handle. Corby or Loveless bolts are worth the added cost and precision (accurately sized, perpendicular holes matter more with threaded hardware than with simple pins) once a maker wants extra mechanical security or plans a design where the handle might need to be more serviceable in concept, even though Corby/Loveless bolts aren’t truly meant for repeat disassembly in practice.

Are Corby bolts actually removable?

In practice, no, not easily. Once tightened and ground flush during finishing, removing one typically requires drilling it out, similar to removing a rivet, despite the threaded construction.

Do I need special tools for Corby or Loveless bolts?

A properly sized drill bit for the bolt diameter and a way to hold the barrel side stationary while tightening the bolt side (some kits include a specific wrench or slot design for this) are typically all that’s needed beyond standard shop tools.

Should a beginner use bolt systems on a first build?

Not necessarily required, plain pins with good epoxy technique (see Attaching Handle Scales) are perfectly strong for most builds and simpler to execute well. Bolt systems are a worthwhile upgrade once basic pinning and epoxy technique are solid.

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